Posts from @grindle

Nokhur village. Turkmenistan

grindle — Fri, 23 Oct 2026 09:01:00 GMT

The legend, is that the name Nohur comes from the name of the prophet Noah, whose ark, after a forty-day voyage,dropped anchor at Mount Manoman. Whereas the Turks claim a simialr mooring at their Mount Ararat. Even though they are a close knit community they were a friendly bunch of people, said to be hard working and loyal to each other. They also enjoy polygamous relationships.

How very civilised

High above the town "Long live peace"

Nokhur, a quiet village sits on a dusty country road into the Kopet Deg mountains; so leave the tarmacadam Ashgabat to Turkmenbashi road behind and join that dusty country road.

A throwback in time but still doing the business, a GAZ-69 Soviet military off-road vehicle, produced between 1953 and 1972. It was a lightweight, four-wheel-drive command vehicle and workhorse for the Red Army.

Cargo tricycles amble through the town

The folk in these here parts, the Nokhurli, speak their own dialect, foreign even to other Turkmen speakers.

They believe they are descended from the invading armies of Alexander the Great who wandered these parts pillaging raping and killing 300 years BCE.

This must be the equivalent of "The middle at Lidl", a fine array of products from footwear to vegatables, plants, brooms and some rather dubious looking liquids, which I am sure is not coca-cola!

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Sunset in the dunes. Turkmenistan

grindle — Wed, 21 Oct 2026 09:07:27 GMT

The yurt camp at the Darvaza gas cratr Turkmenistan. My home for one night only, a magnificent sunset in the dunes

A stroll before the BBQ commenced

The scrubland adding perspective to the landscape

The yurts reasonably comfortable but too fucking hot and airless to sleep in for me, whilst others sweated I later slept under the stars oblivious to the creatures of the night.

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I am the god of Hellfire and I bring you..........* Turkmenistan

grindle — Sun, 18 Oct 2026 08:03:51 GMT

Those of a certain age will remember the opening lyrics.**

After that long bumpy drive through the sand blown desert, we arrived at the gates of hell, bit disappointed that there was no horned devil to greet me, just a gang of blokes preparing our over night camp. So time for a wander leaving them and the sweet smell of dead sheep roasting over an open BBQ, and the beer chilling in the ice box.

To say that in the daylight it was quite underwhelming would be an understatement

So returning to the camp to feast before the sunset and the real fun begins. The trek back was fine, only about half a mile through the sand dunes.

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Now we are talking adventure.

Why? because that gentle uphill stroll through the loose sand, navigable in the falling daylight, became a hope for the best stumble in the darkness, and stumble I jolly well did!
More than once ending on my arse.

Darvaza Crater, known as “The Gates of Hell”, or other similar “hellfire” variation is the site of a 1971 industrial accident; turned fortuitously into a popular world renowned tourist attraction.

The crater was “created” when a Soviet drilling rig collapsed into an underground cavern. It caused a massive gas leak and the collapse apparently caused the deaths of at least a couple of shepherds who were camping nearby.

To fix the gas leak, the same brilliant Soviet engineers decided to light the pit on fire, calculating that the gas would burn off in a “few days”.

Well my friends, some 40+ years later and I can confirm that yup, it’s still burning.

There was no elf n safety, restricting where you could or could not walk, guess it depends upon how risk averse one is and your tolerance to fucking bloody heat that radiated outwards.

Outside of Ashgabat, there not be a lot for a traveller to see let alone a tacky tourist. Turkmenistan is 70% desert so this can probably, quite rightfully claim to be Turkmenistan’s most visited attraction; this despite the fact it is literally a hole on fire in a desert and apart from a few yurts is totally undeveloped. Now c'mon if this was Yankmenistan there would be hotels, motels, billboards with neon arrows shouting “Visit the gates of hell, come off at the next exit!have a nice day y'all.”

Gurbanguly Berdimuhamedow, the current President visited back in 2010. He reportedly thought that it was a “waste of gas” and ordered it filled in.
But
It's still burning bright in the night sky.

Now to stumble back

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In the desert, you can remember your name*

grindle — Fri, 16 Oct 2026 06:44:54 GMT

Darvaza Gas Crater is located in the Karakum Desert.Turkmenistan, something I have wanted to see for years, so here I am on a Highway to Hell.

Piling into some really comfy diesel powered 4X4 vehicles, very civilised, none of that fucking battery nonsense here,(white as you may have guessed, that is the only colour available in Ashgabt) leaving the OTT capital behind a journey that will take not that long, about 4-5 hrs.

Elbows out grab the front passenger seat? nah it was more civilised than that, I had mentioned in a previous post that my CI had packed in and I was virtually totally deaf, sot of! i suggested I sit up front and let the three in the back seat enjoy chatting away. Agreed with no arguments, Elbows out? sort of!

The main highway between Ashgabat and the uzbekistan border 350 miles away was very straight, not too may potholes and not much lane discipline either, seemed to me that unless there is something coming towards you, just drive where you want in Turkmenistan seems the order of the day.

The wastelands are quite flat and bordered by scrub and sand which whips up when the wind blows, which doesn't seem to have any impact upon our driver who maintained a steady 65mph.

The P1 highway links Turkmenistan to Uzbekistan, there were quite a few containers moving in both directions. said to be a six lane motorway though as I say no one adheres to lane discipline. Construction started in 2019, replacing the old road and its full completion is sometime in 2026.

Tarmacadam as it cuts through a salt lake, salt deposits drying out on the surface

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Ýerbent, a Turkmenistan pit stop

Leg stretching time

In the middle of nowhere, half-buried by the sands of the Karakum desert; Yerbent a population of under 3,000 probably unheard of by the closeted ruling facist family in the capital city.

Just a bunch of single storey shacks and ancient vehicles of all descriptions

Yerbent was a rural desert outpost and the people of the region semi-nomadic camel breeders and herders, that was all to change with the Soviet regime in their quest for collectivisation especially in agriculture, together with the policy of "settled living" which totally disrupted their nomadic lifestyle.

Its only monument dates to the Soviet era, commemorating their struggles, it features a Turkmen lady in traditional dress, head bowed mourning the death of 11 men who fell during the 1931 Basmachi Revolt against the Soviet state that had spanned central Asia since the days of WW1.

Camel breeding is the primary and probably the only livelihood around here.

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The Russian Bazaar. Turkmenistan.

grindle — Wed, 14 Oct 2026 08:14:54 GMT

The Gülistan Döwlet Söwda Merkezi, in the center of Ashgabat, is one of the largest and oldest covered markets in the country.

Known as the "Russian Bazaar" it was built in 1972 in the less brutalist Soviet Modernist style, it remains a popular place for both locals and travellers alike, both visiting for different reasons.

The original market building was modernised in 2001 with updated fixtures and facilities such as sectioned shops and eateries. Then in 2007 as is the case in Ashgabat in general it was completely cladded in white marble.

The roof sits higher than the building walls provideing much need shade and also ventilation.

Weirdly told by our guide that photography may be shunned by the vendors and shoppers alike as they "do not like having their photo taken"

Seriously? that is the problem in generalisation, it wasn't a problem was it, otherwise you would be looking at a blank page here right?

It was a wonderful cacophony of sounds and smells, sellers calling out prices, the aroma of spices and fresh foods wafting through the air.

None of the fuckers would smile though

Beauty in a sea of blandness

A nice pair

And an apple, did not expect to see a "franchise" here. Though c'mon it is probably snide gear for sale.

More fruit, every August Turkmenistan has the Gawun Bayramy festival, a national holiday in homage to the wonderful watermelon. IMHO a nice pair of melons should be honoured on a more frequent basis.

This is one of the quietest markets I have ever visited, it was lacking the hub bub and grittiness that other Central Asian markets all seem to have; no jostling no pushing and shoving. This was more like a stroll around Lidl

Look how clean and shiny the floor is

What looks like a giant wisdom tooth

is in fact an abstract sculpture, called the “bowl of gazelles” , the sculpture is actually a cover for a set of air ducts.

The market opens daily and is one of the few places in Ashgabat where haggling is expected

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Halk Hakydasy Memorial Complex. Ashgabat.

grindle — Sun, 11 Oct 2026 07:39:54 GMT

It was only 4 miles from the hotel, but I got myself a taxi, too freaking hot, the mercury was riding high 90's, it was 4pm. walking not an option, standing outdoors awaiting its arrival was hot enough. The journey was uneventful, shame there was no air-con. I did not pay the driver, as this was a return trip I did not want him doing a runner and leaving me stranded, no mobile phone connectivity and who would I call anyways?

Believe you me this complex is nowhere near civilisation; as with the majority of these places in Ashgabat they seem to have been plonked in the middle of nowhere, though with a dual carriageway alongside it the road journey was smooth, but boring.

Let me just get to the top of these steps and I will let you see for yourselves

"Kemosabe, he not speak with forked tongue", (if you are old you will remember!) hazy views.

The memorial complex covers 160 acres, with an ensemble of structures; a memorial complex to the honour of those killed in the Battle of Geok Tepe in 1881, those who died in World War II, and those in the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake.

I was there an hour or so, the only visitor; there were a few gardeners about the place and two guards at the Eternal Glory Memorial, there was also a guard guarding the guards, keeping his eye on me; as it is unlawful to take snaps of military personnel.

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Monument Ruhy Tagzym

The design of the monument is based on an ancient Turkmen legend about a fantastic bull holding the Earth on its horns, and its bellowing sound is represented as the underground rumbles within an earthquake.

Dedicated to the 70-110 thousand victims of the 1948 Ashgabat earthquake: The exact figure is not known as the event was not widely reported due to Soviet censorship.

The bronze sculpture of a bull, mounted on a marble plinth is over 30ft in height.

It depicts a mighty bull tossing the world on its horns, with the bodies of the dead and dying desperately clinging to its circumference

Whilst on top a mother with her last desperate movements saving her baby, lifting it over the ruins of the city.

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Monument Milletiň Ogullary

The Sons of the Nation monument depicts a mother waiting for her husband and sons.

Dedicated to the memory of the heroes who died during the battle near Geok Depe in 1881; where upwards of 15 thousand Turkmen were slaughtered by Russians in their conquest to expand the Russian Empire.

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Monument Baky şöhrat

The eternal glory memorial to those who fell in the 1941–1945 Great Patriotic War until 2014 was called "The eternal flame" and stood in the centre of Ashgabat then with the opening of this complex was dismantled and rebuilt, though with significant design changes as well as the name change.

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Independence Park, Ashgabat.

grindle — Fri, 09 Oct 2026 06:55:12 GMT

Independence Park in Ashgabat covers a vast area , just under 500 acres, which is nearly half of the city's open green space, it is mostly made up of pathways and trees and shrubs, and statues of people; "famous" in Turkmen history.

Sitting in an albeit cramped mini bus, enjoying the very cold air being pumped out of a very efficient air con system does tend to lull one into a false sense of serenity. Arriving here and stepping out into the firece heat, 97F, sheesh within minutes you are sweating, knowing that once back on the bus, you will experience that horrible feeling of icy air hitting a hot sweaty tee shirt. Yeuch.

So c'mon lets get sweaty together, its a hell of a trek to the top

A rather large pretentious golden statue of Saparmurat Niyazov, Turkmenistan's first president. under whose leadership the government busied themselves banning black cars, tight clothing, satellite dishes, social media, lip-syncing and smelly dogs in the capital city. I told you it was a weird bit of the world.

It would have been good if the fountains were spraying a light mizzle of water.

The design of the Independence Monument is said to be drawn from the style of traditional Turkmen tents and the traditional headgear worn by Turkmen girls. It is surrounded by statues of 27 notable Turkmen historical figures, warriors, and poets. It stands at 387 feet tall.

Within the building, there are exhibition halls where important works of art representing Turkmenistan history are displayed. centered on a golden statue of Saparmurat Niyazov.

It is often nicknamed “the plunger” due to its distinctive shape.

A couple of said "famous" people

As you can see the incline was quite misleading, I don't get this breathless doing the jiggy jiggy!

I wonder if the locals ever visit, as it was empty, not a soul insight, apart from the guard of honour and their minder at the Independence monument. they get vewwy vewwy angwy if you try to sneak a photo. As a fellow traveller found out when the sentry minder stormed over, fully kitted up with a gun and demanded to examine his camera, making him delete all that had soldiers on them!

Now let's hop on the bus gus, and get cold and clammy

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Some other bits in the park

Altyn Asyr trade centre, nicknamed the "Five-Legged" building as apparently seen from above it has five distinct legs to symbolise the five regions of the country

Although it has a rather grand name it is basically a shopping mall, retailing all you can desire from clothing stores, textiles, and everyday goods.

The former president of Turkmenistan, Saparmurat Niyazov, is also a published author, and created a bizarre work known as "The Book of the Soul" or The Ruhnama it is a two volume publication made up of a weird mix of revisionist history, his moral ideals, religious norms, and fairytales.

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Shooting babies for SMAsh #446

grindle — Tue, 06 Oct 2026 08:17:03 GMT

This is my entry for shadow hunters contest round 446. I don't often use my phone as a camera, a phone is for like phoning, right? but on this instance I couldn't be bothered getting my weapon out for a single shot of a bonnet of a car parked up in Turkmenbasi, Turkmenistan.

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Just a few big lumps snapped from The Alem Centre Ashgabat.

grindle — Fri, 02 Oct 2026 07:56:12 GMT

Come see some of the pretentious over the top constructions in Ashgabat, all snapped from the Big wheel complex, just scratching the surface as Ashgabat houses so many weird and wonderful structures, time is against me as soon to be heading out into the desert to see the real Turkmenistan.

The Monument to the Bicycle a tribute to "cycling culture" and the nation's dedication to promoting healthy lifestyles and environmental awareness. TBH, think it is all bullshit, never saw one lardy arsed MAMIL clogging up the traffic anywhere, thankfully. TBH I didn't see a bike. period.

A rather large statue of the 18th-century Turkmen poet and philosopher, Magtymguly Pyragy. The statue stands just under 200 ft tall and is a prominent located at the foothills of the Kopetdag Mountains.

To the left, (Another vanity project by the country's first president, Niyazov, The eddifice is topped off with a 39ft tall gold plated statue of himself, which rotates to always face the sun. What a wanker). The Monument of Neutrality. The three-legged arch, which became known locally as "The Tripod", is 246 ft tall and was built in 1998 at a cost of $12 million constructed to commemorate the country's official position of neutrality.
Centre; The Ministry of Finance and Economy of Turkmenistan is the central government institution charged with leading the financial policy of Turkmenistan.
To the right, the Abadançylyk (Well-being) Monument; a prominent white tower topped with a golden sphere and white doves.

The Palace of Meetings is a congress palace and convention centre it features a neo-classical facade with an Asian architectural touch famed for its gilded ornamentation and large architectural dome. It hosts major national events and meetings of the People's Council.

The Ashgabat TV Tower is a rather grand structure that stands on a rise in the Kopet Dag mountains and overlooks the city of. Constructed in 2011, it stands just under 700ft in height, making it the tallest structure in Turkmenistan.

A broadcasting and telecommunications facility, transmitting across Turkmenistan, it also houses observation decks, and a restaurant,

The Monument to the Constitution built between 2008-11 at a height of 606 ft it is the second-tallest building in Turkmenistan. Built to honour the 20th anniversary of the Constitution of Turkmenistan, It houses a museum, a conference room, and a library.

The Yildiz is a 5 star 24 storey, 155 room hotel in the foothills of the Kopetdag Mountains handily connected to the city by a modern dual carriageway At 350 ft high, it is the tallest hotel in Turkmenistan. For a standard room look to pay $250, or if you want guaranteed extra special jiggy jiggy with your lady of choice, treat her to the Presidential suite at $1,000 a night.

The Wedding Palace, probably one of the most iconic and most photographed buildings in Ashgabat; the city itself holds the Guinness World Record for having the highest concentration of white marble buildings.

It is colloquially known as "The Palace of Happiness", with seven banquet rooms and 36 shops which provide all the necessary items of wedding services; dress shops, decorations, ethnic jewellery, photo studio, and a beauty salon, not an Ann Summers boutique in sight! and no doubt a complete tinternet block of LoveHoney.(double explanation mark)!

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Alem Cultural and Entertainment Center . Ashgabat

grindle — Sat, 26 Sep 2026 06:16:12 GMT

A visit to Älem medeni dynç alyş merkezi a cultural center in Ashgabat which was officially opened to the public on May 18, 2012 was hard work, stepping from an ice cold aircon mini bus into the breath taking hot air was well, breath taking.

As was the collossal structure itself.

Standing 312 ft tall it has a 56 ft decorative spire on top and has six floors, each of which are 23 ft tall four floors above ground and two floors are below.

A 187 ft diameter glass and white-steel casing sits on top of the building containing a functional ferris wheel known as 'Alem', in English translating as 'The Universe'.

The wheel itself is 156 ft in height and was built by Fabbri Group through its Giant Wheels brand it houses 24 six-seat cabins for guests to ride in.

Alem was recognised by Guinness World Records as the world's tallest Ferris wheel in an enclosed space at the time of the opening ceremony.

It also houses a bowling alley, cinema screens, a restaurant, a planetarium, and numerous fairground attractions and video gaming machines.

The enclosure resembles the eight-sided star of Oguz Khan, the legendary king of the Turkmen tribes. $90 million structure

No need to worry about being photo bombed , as like with the rest of the capital; it was open for business but there was no one else around!

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